Once again I am following the California Mission trail, this time starting where I left off – Mission Carmel – and working south through the Central California missions.
The last time I visited Mission Carmel, I arrived minutes before closing and had to do a high-speed running tour, keeping one step ahead of the guards who were shutting off the lights behind me. This visit was more leisurely and I actually had time to read the information.
As far as Nativity figures, I showed blog readers the 18th – 19th century Neapolitan presepio that had been a gift to the Mission a couple of decades ago, intended to replace one that was known to have been in its possession in the 18th and early 19th centuries but disappeared somewhere along the line.
Other than that, the mission is full of Niños and St. Josephs and Virgins. One of the most interesting is Nuestra Sra de Belén, a large 18th century Virgin holding the Child. At one time, it belonged to the Archbishop of Mexico City, who gave it to Fr. Junipero Serra, the founder of this mission and many of the other missions, to accompany him on his travels. The Archbishop renamed her “La Conquistadora,” Our Lady the Conqueror. In the photo, you will see La Conquistadora behind another smaller figure of the Virgin for some reason placed in this location.
Mission Carmel is the third mission founded, and the figure was permanently installed here and has remained at Mission Carmel (or, when the Mission was abandoned, at a nearby church) since its founding. There were many Portuguese sailors and fishermen living in the area and they were particularly devoted to her and gave her the punched silver crown that she wears. Her clothing was replaced in the 1950s, but the figure is the original, probably made in Mexico, and has the original painting and finish. She reminded me very much of the 18th century Spanish-made figure of Our Lady of Carmel that I saw in the chapel at Ponferrada when I was working as an hospitalera there last year.
When Pope John Paul II visited Mission Carmel, officially known as Mission San Carlos Borromeo, for the beatification of Fr Junípero Serra in 1987, he prayed before La Conquistadora.
The Mission is very beautiful and is beautifully maintained. On one side is the old churchyard, where the Mission Indians were buried in these abalone-shell decorated graves. The indefatigable Harry Downie, a 20th century woodworker who nearly singlehandedly restored most of the missions, is also buried there. Fr Serra is buried in the church, in front of the altar.
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